The Maths

Measurements

Many different mathematical equations need to be to taken in to account with footwear. Pattern making, fitting and re-fitting samples, design development, etc. All of the parts that will be measured are:

The nomenclature of the last:

Forepart

This area includes: 

Toe Spring - there is always a toe spring used in footwear in order to create flexibility when walking. The higher the heel, the higher the toe spring. 

Toes - many different toe shapes can be designed around this toe shaped area.

Ball Girth - the forepart ends when it reaches this joint.

Tread - on the underneath of the last the tread measures from the widest part of both sides.

Cone

This area includes:

Vamp point - this is essentially the middle point. Used in measurements to form the top lines of the upper.

Waist - otherwise known as the instep.

Shank - used to reinforce area of foot, can be made of many different types of relatively rigid materials.

Half Plate - on the underneath of the last (polyethylene) you will find a metal plate that covers from the mid to back section, where you will measure your shank size.

Backpart

This area includes

Heel Girth - measuring from heel seat to instep.

Throat - another name for the heel curve

Heel Seat - found on the underneath of the last where the heel will attach.

Counter/Top Line Point - these are the points most crucial when pattern making as the back of the shoe will determine the support of the foot and make the shoe wearable and comfortable.