The Shoe Bible: Patterns

Pattern Making

The process of pattern making (or cutting) can be quite time consuming and difficult, but is a very important task in shoe making.

You can benefit from learning this process even if you don't make your own patterns. It can help you communicate your designs to a factory better and will also better your drawing skills as you'll know each pattern component and understand the limit of changes you can make to a shoe.

'Pattern cutting' normally refers to the upper. Heels and soles are usually made separately by experts and can be bought from or customised in certain factories. Most components with shoe making can be outsourced but I find taking on the task of pattern cutting can leave scope for creative ideas and to also feel more involved with my designs.

There a two main ways of pattern making:

No.1 By covering your last with tape. Masking tape is preferable as you are able to make visible markings and measurements, and is easy to peel away when ready to place on pattern paper.

No.2 Using a vacuum machine process that uses heat to mould a plastic sheet to the shape of the last. This can be drawn on and easily cut apart to flatten into pattern parts.

The Calculations

All these calculations will be based on a standard court shoe last size 38.

Firstly, mark a line down the centre of the last. I always like to label an 'R' and 'L' for left and right on the inside and outside of the foot. Also label all of your patterns as you go to ensure no mistakes!

Hold the last upside down and against a flat surface (I like to use the edge of a table to keep stable). Mark the point where the widest part of the foot touches the table, and repeat on the other side (refer to tread measurement). Take a measuring tape and place it above the mark on the inside foot and below the mark on the outside foot - hold it steady and draw a line from mark to mark - vamp point.

Work out the standard last length (SLL):

(to see how to measure last length, see below)

Last length divided by 4, multiplied by 3.

250/4 = 62.5 x 3 = 187.5mm

Work out the Counter Point (CP) for backpart of shoe:

Last length divided by 5, plus back height (BH).

250/5 = 50mm (CP) + 6.0 = 56mm (BH)

Measure the halfway point of the ball girth line just drawn and mark. Measure half of that line again, on both sides and mark. You should end up with three markings.

A court shoe top line will measure from the BH to the half point mark and should equal the measurements calculated. You can change the top line to make more creative designs.

Use stanly knife down the centre of the fore and back part of the taped last, and around the base leaving the tape all along the underneath for the sole pattern.